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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.